Q: My fish are listless and just sit on the bottom of the tank or Koi pond.
A: Try checking the water temperature first. If the weather has changed and it is cold outside, or your heater is malfunctioning... this could cause this condition. If the temperature is fine, this sounds like a bacterial infection.

Treatment: Treat the fish with TMP Sulfa -or- Gentamycin Sulfate.

Q: My fish are breathing heavily. I used an anti-parasitic treatment but it didn't work
A: This sounds like the pH could be too high (alkalosis), or there is an Ammonia or Nitrite problem. Check all water parameters with a test kit.

Treatment: Do some partial water changes and make sure to use a dechlorinator. If the pH is too high for the species of fish, use some Sodium Monophosphate to lower it. If the Ammonia is too high, increase the aeration and use some Aqua-Gold.

Q: My fish cannot swim correctly and whirls-wobbles around the tank
A: This sounds like a bacterial infection of the swim bladder.

Treatment: Use Erythromycin powder for 10 days. TMP Sulfa is also a good treatment for swim bladder disorders.

Whenever you suspect a swim bladder problem, do not pop your fish with a pin or needle!

Q: My fish is stuck at the top of the water, and fights to swim down to the bottom.
A: This could be an internal parasitic problem, especially in large cichlids.

Treatment: Treat the fish with Paracide-D Mix the medication in the food and feed it to the fish for 3-5 days.

Q: My fish has turned dark and hides all the time. The fish seems "spooked".
A: First check to see if there is another aggressive fish in the tank, that is picking on this particular fish. If you have small children or adults tapping on the glass, this could be the case. Also, too much movement around the tank, or too much cleaning and disturbing the tank, might be the problem. Water quality could also be an issue.

Treatment: If none of the above, treat the fish with Parinox.

Q: The fish look fine, but then suddenly jerk and dart around the tank or pond.
A: Your fish are affected by Parasites.

Treatment: Treat the fish with De-Los in freshwater tanks -or- Praziquantel. in marine tanks

Q: My fish hang at the top of the tank, or underneath the waterfall in the pond, and gasp for air.
A: Your fish are affected by Gill Flukes

Treatment: Treat the fish with De-Los in freshwater tanks or Praziquantel. in marine tanks

Q: My fish used to eat readily, but now he won't eat at all. His stomach is all bloated up.
A: Sounds like the fish has internal Hexamita (Malawi Bloat).

Treatment: Treat the fish with Metronidazole powder. Try starving the fish for 1 week and feed him some Metronidazole in some frozen food. Use 1/2 teaspoon per 1/2 pound of food. Feed it to the fish once a day for 5-7 days.

Q: My fish eats like a pig, but his belly is all swollen up.
A: This sounds like internal parasites, worms probably.

Treatment: Use Paracide-D in the feed. Use 1/4 teaspoon per 100 grams of food. Feed the medicated food to the fish once a day for 3-5 days.

Q: One part of my fish has turned black and there is swelling underneath the area.
A: Sounds like a Melanocarcinoma (tumor), that has pinched off the color controlling nerves of the fish

Treatment: No suitable treatment known. Sacrifice this fish humanely.

Q: The fish has a hazy white covering over it. It looks like a fungus, but anti-fungal treatments do not work.
A: This is a called Columnaris Disease and is caused by gram-negative bacteria.

Treatment: Use TMP-Sulfa -or- Sulfa 4 TMP -or- Triple Sulfa Powder.

Q: My fish's colors have become very light and they seem to be under stress.
A: Try checking your water parameters with a test kit. This condition could be from an improper pH, or poor water quality (Ammonia & Nitrites). Added any medications to the tank lately? Or water conditioners? Also check to see if something toxic is in the tank (rocks etc.)

Treatment: Do some partial water changes and make sure you are using activated charcoal in your filtration. Adjust pH with Sodium Monophosphate if it is too high. If the Ammonia is high, do a partial water change, increase the aeration and use some Aqua Gold.

Q: I have Discus. They have all turned black and are sitting on the bottom.
A: This could be many different things. Discus commonly turn dark when they are sick, or if your water quality is poor. Discus are very susceptible to protozoan diseases such as Hexamita and Chilodonella.

Treatment: If your water quality checks out ok, and your pH is 6.5, try treating the fish with some Metronidazole for 8-10 days.

Q: I have a Koi pond, and some of the bodies of my white Koi have turned bright red.
A: Your fish are affected by Bacterial Hemorrhagic Septicemia.

Treatment: Use Oxytetracycline in the feed at 2 teaspoons per pound of food. Feed this to the fish once a day for 10-14 days.

Q: I have some african cichlids that used to be black with white dots on them. Their colors look strange now. I have used medications on them but nothing has worked, any suggestions?.
A: Sounds like you have the species "Tropheus Duboisi". The Tropheus species will change color as they grow from juvenile species to adults. This is completely normal and no medications are necessary.

Q: One of my fish's eyes is popped out to the side.
A: This is called "Pop-Eye", and is caused by a gram-positive bacteria that affects the kidney.

Treatment: Treat the fish with Erythromycin Powder for a ten day treatment.

Q: Both of my fish's eyes are popped out to the side.
A: These are the starting symptoms of Abdominal Dropsy. Very few fish survive this condition.

Treatment: Move the affected fish to an isolation tank and raise the temperature to 84-86 degrees fahrenheit. Treat the fish with 1 dose of Gentamycin Sulfate Powder and leave the medication in the water for 7 days, with no water changes during treatment time. When treatment is finished, add the carbon back to the filtration, and slowly lower the temperature back to normal over several days time.

Q: My fish have a whitish film covering both eyes.
A: This is a gram-negative bacterial infection and can be treated with a few different antibiotics.

Treatment: For saltwater fish: Kanamycin Sulfate Powder -or- Gentamycin Sulfate Powder.

For freshwater fish: TMP Sulfa Powder -or- Gentamycin Sulfate Powder.

Q: My fish have something small and white lodged inside the eye.
A: Your fish are affected with an Eye Fluke.

Treatment: Treat the fish with Praziquantel -or- De-Los.

Q: One or both of my fish's eyes have fallen out.
A: Your fish are affected with Tuberculosis. Be careful because this disease is transferable to humans! It is suggested to humanely sacrifice this fish.

Treatment: This fish may be treated with a combination of Kanamycin, and Vitamin B-6. This fish will have to be treated for 30 days minimum time. It is suggested that you call: 520-298-7814 for a consultation before attempting to treat this fish. The aquarium should be drained and sterilized. All equipment should be sterilized also.

Q: My fish has redness and swelling around the eye.
A: The fish may have had an injury to that eye from another aggressive species of fish, or an object in the aquarium or pond. This injury will become infected with a gram negative bacteria such as Aeromonas or Pseudomonas.

Treatment: The fish may be treated with Oxytetracycline Powder -or- Oxolinic Acid Powder -or- Neomycin Sulfate Powder.

Q: One or several of my fish have redness at the base of their fins.
A: This is a case of Bacterial Hemorrhagic Septicemia. As this disease progresses, the fish will start to lose scales, the body will have red streaks and sores will develop if not treated.

Treatment: Treat the fish with Oxytetracycline Powder in the feed for ten days if possible.

Q: The fish's fins appear to be slowly eaten away and edged in white.
A: This is a classic case of Fin and Tail Rot. It is caused by a Pseudomonas Bacteria (A condition called: Pseudomoniasis).

Treatment: There are quite a few things you can use to treat this condition. TMP-Sulfa -or- Sulfa 4 TMP -or- Neomycin Sulfate -or- Tetracycline -or- Nitrofurazone.

Q: My fish have an off-white looking substance growing on the fins.
A: This is a gram-negative bacterial infection called Columnaris Disease. Some people often mistake this disease as a fungus.

Treatment: Sulfa drugs work well for this. TMP-Sulfa -or- Sulfa 4 TMP -or Triple Sulfa Powder.

Q: The fins on my fish are all fuzzy and cotton-like. The fins are eaten away.
A: This sounds like a Saprolegnia Fungus.

Treatment: Treat the fish with Forma-Green for 5-7 days.

Q: The fins on my fish are frayed and ragged. Some fins are split. Some fish breathe heavily and some die quickly.
A: This sounds like an Ammonia problem in the water. Use an ammonia test kit and check for Nitrites also. If you have any readings of Ammonia or Nitrites, do a partial water change immediately. Increase the oxygen level if possible.

Treatment: Use Aqua Gold to establish the proper level of nitrifying bacteria needed to cycle the water.

Q: The fish's fins look good and clear, but they have splits in them
A: The fish may have a nutritional deficiency. Check to make sure the diet requirements are met for the species of fish. Are there aggressive species of fish in the tank. The fish may have been involved in a territorial dispute (cichlids).

Treatment: If the fish was involved in a fight, treat the fish in an isolation tank with Nitrofuracin Green.

Q: The fish have black spots in their fins and tails.
A: This is an encapsulated worm larvae (Metacercariae).

Treatment: Although the fish can live to a ripe old age with this condition, Praziquantel -or- De-Los may be used to treat the fish.

Q: The fish have small white spots all over their fins.
A: Sounds like the fish has Ich. Ich is usually caused by a drop in temperature. Is this a new fish that was transferred to the tank in a plastic bag? Is your tank in a drafty hallway? Check to see if the heater is functioning properly.

Treatment: Treat the fish with Malachite Green -or- Forma-Green -or- Copper Sulfate. If the fish is a scaless fish, treat the fish with Methylene Blue -or- Acriflavine Neutral.

Q: The fish have a cauliflower-like growth on, or at the base of the fins.
A: This is Lymphocystis Virus and cannot be cured. No suitable treatment known.

Q: One or several of my fish have a slimy covering on their skin in certain spots.
IN FRESHWATER KOI PONDS, USING TOO MUCH SALT WILL CAUSE THE FISH TO PRODUCE MORE SLIME! KEEP SALT LEVELS AT 0.1% OR LOWER.

A: In Freshwater Fish: This is a Protozoan infestation called Chilodonella. This is common in Discus and Angelfish.

Treatment: Treat the fish with Quinine Sulfate or Forma-Green

A: In Saltwater Fish: This is Brooklynella Hostilis

Treatment: Treat the fish with Quinine Sulfate or Forma-Green in a hospital tank for 5-7 days.

Q: The fish's skin has a hazy white covering over it in patches. It looks like a fungus, but anti-fungal treatments do not work.
A: This is a called Columnaris Disease and is caused by gram-negative bacteria.

Treatment: Use TMP-Sulfa -or- Sulfa 4 TMP -or- Triple Sulfa Powder.

Q: My fish looks like it is covered with a fine white sandy coating.
A: In Freshwater Fish: This is known as Ich (Ichthyophthirius)

Treatment: Use Forma-Green -or- Acriflavine Neutral. If you have tried one of these treatments and it did not work, you have a resistant strain of Ich and need to treat with Quinine Sulfate for 5-7 days.

A: In Saltwater Fish: This is known as Cryptocaryon Irritans (Saltwater Ich).

Treatment: Copper Sulfate is the old stand by treatment. Forma-Green may also be used. For stubborn strains, try some Quinine Sulfate.

Q: My fish has white thread-like or cottony puffs on the skin.
A: This sounds like a Saprolegnia Fungus.

Treatment: Treat the fish with Forma-Green for 5-7 days.

Q: My fish has small off-white to yellowish dots on the skin and scale edges.
A: Your fish are affected by Oodinium.

Treatment: Use Acriflavine Neutral -or- Forma-Green -or- Copper Sulfate.

Q: The fish has bloody patches on the skin as if it were sanded or scraped off.
A: Your fish are affected by a Costia infestation. (Ichthyobodo).

Treatment: Treat the fish with Forma-Green -or- Acriflavine Neutral.

Q: My fish has pimples on it's skin with something white sticking out.
A: This is a parasitic worm (Lernea), or Anchorworm. Common in Goldfish.

Treatment: Treat the fish with De-Los.

Q: The scales on my fish are falling off.
A: Sounds like the fish has Bacterial Hemorrhagic Septicemia.

Treatment: Treat the fish with Oxytetracycline Hydrochloride Powder, for ten days.

Q: My fish had a pimple on the skin, and now it is a large sore. Other fish are covered with large sores and dying in droves.
A: This sounds like a bacterial disorder, either Aeromonas bacteria or Pseudomonas bacteria. This disorder is common in Koi ponds.

Treatment: Use Koi Fix®, or you can use a combination of Oxytetracycline Hydrochloride + Oxolinic Acid Powder on the fish for a two week treatment. These medications can also be used in the feed (suggested). If used in the feed, add Forma-Green to the water. Bumping up the temperature to 80 degrees fahrenheit has shown to speed up this treatment.

There is much controversy when it comes to using antibiotics on tropical fish and Koi. Applications are confusing, and everywhere you go for advice, someone is telling you something different.

To clear a few things up, we have created this section, so treatments with antibiotics are less confusing.

If you have purchased our products here at National Fish Pharmaceuticals, you will notice on the label that we tell you to use the product every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Then we instruct you to treat for 10 days.

However, if you have a body of water that is 100 gallons of water or larger, the antibiotics will stay effective much longer, and not dissipate out as quickly as say... a 10 gallon tank. So instead of treating every 24 hours, we suggest treating every 3 days with a 25% water change before each treatment. This will not only save you some water changes, but some money on medications also.

Rules of thumb:

1). Always use antibiotics for at least 10 days to prevent a resistant strain of bacteria from developing.

2). Antibiotics may not be used as preventatives, or as a "dip". You can create problems doing this.

3). Never mix any antibiotics together without proper consultation. Some antibiotics are not compatible when mixed, and the results can be fatal to your fish.

4). If you are treating your water with antibiotics, do not feed your fish during the treatment time. This may cause Ammonia levels to become toxic, and besides...fish can go up to 30 days without eating anything and be perfectly fine.

Copper Sulfate, Is it safe?

Many people have had a bad experience with, or are afraid to use Copper Sulfate on their fish because they have been improperly informed on the mixing, dosing and usage of this product.

First we will tell you what Copper does:

Copper Sulfate is pretty much an all-around treatment. It is an Algaecide, meaning that it kills Algae, it is Anti-Bacterial, Anti-Fungal, works on external Protozoa such as Ich, and works on Oodinium, Sliminess of the skin, and kills certain parasites such as Cryptocaryon Irritans (Salt water Ich) and Crustacea (Argulus). It also works as a great preventative treatment for most all fish, freshwater or saltwater. We used to use it on Gill Flukes years ago, but now, the Gill Flukes have become resistant to this treatment.

How to mix up a Copper Solution properly:

Stock solution= 21 grams of Copper Sulfate + 21 grams of Citric Acid Crystals to 1 pint of distilled water. Shake well. Use 1 drop per every gallon of aquarium water= .15ppm. Why use Citric Acid with Copper? Simple, it sequesters the solution to make it stable. Copper does not readily dissolve in water. The Citric Acid helps it to dissolve completely and prevent Copper levels from bouncing around.

How high can I run Copper?

Safe levels are .15ppm to .20ppm. Any higher may burn the fish and leave them with red sores on their sides. It is very important to use a Copper test kit when medicating with this product.

How do I remove Copper?

A common misconception about Copper is that it can be removed from the water with activated charcoal. It can only be removed by either doing water changes, or by using E.D.T.A. (Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acidic Acid) to chelate it out of the water. Remember folks, there is no such thing as a "Chelated Copper Solution", as "Chelated" means "Inactivated". The proper terminology would be "Sequestered Copper Solution".

Warnings before using Copper:

Although Copper is safe at the correct parts per million, there are certain things that Copper cannot be use on: Saltwater Sharks, Invertebrates, and for sure... reef tanks.

Also, be careful if using Copper to kill algae. When you dose the tank, the Copper readings will disappear, because the algae will suck it all up. Then the algae dies, and releases all of the Copper back into the water.

Copper is a heavy metal ion and is considered a "Poison". Care should be used when handling this product.

Saltwater Aquariums

We created this section mainly for you Saltwater Aquarists out there, to help you understand what the correct water parameters are for your tanks, and some of our importers/exporters, that have had difficulties with diseases, brought on by keeping fish in an environment that is not stable.

Yeah, Yeah, you read a book, or heard from so and so that you should keep your water a certain way. Everyone tells a different story of what they do to their tank to keep it healthy.

One of the first things that anyone should do before purchasing fish, is to ask the dealer what their water parameters are. This will ensure less stress on the fish, therefore preventing a disease to manifest.

Also, if you are living on the East Coast, or the West Coast, you must understand that the water parameters in your oceans (Atlantic & Pacific) are much different than the water parameters will be in your aquarium. Many fish come from Africa, Hawaii, Fiji and other tropical areas with much warmer water, and lower salinity levels.

Proper Salinity Levels:

10.17 - 10.19 This is the salinity level that we use for our saltwater fish-only tanks.

10.27 This higher salinity is needed for live rock and coral in reef tanks.

Water Temperature:

78 - 80 degrees fahrenheit. Temperatures below this will cause disease. If you keep getting Cryptocaryon (Ich), this is the reason.

Proper pH level:

8.2

Freshwater Aquariums

Freshwater aquariums are pretty easy to take care of in general, depending on the fish you decide to keep.

Water parameters for most of your common tropical fish such as livebearers, south american cichlids, goldfish, guppies etc, can be kept at the same levels.

Temperature: 76 - 80 degrees fahrenheit, pH= Neutral to Alkaline 7.0-7.6.

If you decide to keep more difficult fishes, such as Discus, water parameters are more difficult to follow.

Temperature: 84 - 86 fahrenheit, pH= Acid pH, 6.0-6.5

If you are keeping African Cichlids, they like a higher pH and harder water

Temperature: 78-80 degrees fahrenheit, pH= Alkaline pH, 8.2-8.4

In freshwater aquariums, it is better to adapt your fish to the pH of your tap water, rather than to add chemicals every time you do a water change. If you are not breeding fishes, follow these guidelines. If you are breeding fishes, you must be careful to duplicate the water quality from where your fish came from.